Central Pa. estate producer adds Saperavi, Gruner to acres of vines it sources for its wines

The 2024 growing season is complete for wineries in Pennsylvania and around the East Coast.

For many, that means fermenting and then bottling the 2024 vintage while getting ready for the busy holiday season in the tasting room.

Those with vineyards, such as Shade Mountain Winery in Middleburg, Snyder County, are already starting to prepare for the next growing season, either cleaning up under the vines or pruning branches to improve the plant's health, shape and productivity.

At a time when many wineries are sourcing grapes or juice from elsewhere, even as far away as the West Coast where a large surplus exists, producers such as Shade Mountain remain as an example albeit diminishing in number, of an estate winery.

It opened in 1999.

More than 70 acres of vines are growing there, including everything from Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Syrah, just to name a few. The winery recently added Saperavi, a grape that originated in the Georgian Republic and has been made successfully down the road at Fero Vineyards & Winery in Lewisburg.

Jenny Zimmerman is one member of a growing family that handles all the duties that a winery requires.

A manager there, her responses appear below to a couple of questions about the diversity of grapes that grow at Shade Mountain and the importance of continuing to operate as a farm winery.

Q, Send me the full list of the grapes you are growing and what led you to plant Saperavi. Is there anything else new you have planted recently?

White grapes: Chardonnay, Viognier, Gruner Veltliner, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Valvin Muscat, Riesling, Cayuga, Traminette, Niagara, Muscat

Red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Saperavi, Petite Verdot, Lemberger (aka Blaufrankish), Steuben, Concord

A, The Saperavi grape filled a niche for us in that these grapes produce a nice, deep, dark red wine ... full in body. Looking at a glass of Saperavi is like looking at an Argentinian Malbec or full-bodied California Cabernet. The Finger Lakes region has had success in growing this grape and given that we have similar climates, we were pretty confident we also could have success in growing it as well. For once we didn't have to be the guinea pig here. Not only did the Finger Lakes grow this grape, they had really promoted it and got into the public eye. They have gone so far as to schedule events around wines made using the Sapervai grapes (it can be used to make a nice full-bodied dry red but also a mild, dry rose wine). The versatility of the wines crafted from these grapes (dry red and dry rose) has also made it a nice foodie wine in that it pairs well with so many dishes ... which the Finger Lakes also promotes.

As far as additional grapes that we have planted recently, just before planting Saperavi we planted some Gruner Veltliner (Austrian, white grape). Enough time has passed that we have been able to get a crop of grapes large enough for its own varietal bottling. We are very pleased with the quality of wine we've crafted, as this wine is light, crisp and dry with green pepper and lime flavors ... finishing with a bit of a "tang" that makes it an easy sipper while also lending it to be a great accompaniment to veggie dishes, seafood and even spicy foods. Look for us to really promote this one in the spring and summer!

Q, 70 acres.. that's a lot of work. What is it that keeps you doing something there that a lot of other wineries have either stopped doing or a lot of new wineries never bothered with?

A, If you have ever met my father, Karl, you would have picked up quickly that he is a farmer to the bone. This man works harder than anyone I have ever known and has instilled hard work, determination and tradition in the rest of us. He will always do "things" the way they are to be done. Short-cuts catch up to you in one way or another ... and by growing your own grapes, we are continuing his tradition .. and also controlling the quality and quantity of wine we produce. All PA wineries should be using PA grapes in their wines ... and we can sleep at night knowing that's exactly what we do here. It's certainly a point of pride and something we hope our customers appreciate. He always says, "Well if it was easy, everyone would be doing it." It certainly is not easy, but I think it sets us apart from the competition and makes us special in the PA wine industry. We will certainly continue this tradition of growing grapes and making quality wines for as long as the fates allow.