Continued Excellence At Robert Mondavi Winery
When Robert Mondavi opened his eponymous winery in Oakville in 1966, it marked an important historical moment in Napa Valley history, as this was the first winery of any size to open in Napa since the end of Prohibition.
That in itself was significant, but more importantly, the vision of Robert Mondavi himself was the path to a new direction in Napa Valley and California wine in general. Mondavi had been with his family winery in the valley for years, but wanted to elevate the quality of the area's wines, which were already very good, sometimes even excellent. Having traveled often to France, he was able to witness first hand what that country's wine industry entailed, and his dream was to produce wines of superior quality similar to what he has tasted in various French regions.
Those that lived through the late 1960s and throughout the 1970s will recall how Robert Mondavi became an iconic name in California, especially with his wines based on a Bordeaux model; his Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons from the decade of the 1970s were brilliant wines, combining excellent varietal character with notable complexity and good levels of acidity that would ensure significant aging potential.
The wine industry in Napa was truly different back then, especially if you compare it with today, where too often producers chase points (the famous or infamous 100-point scale) and craft wines that are highly extracted, and feature ultra round tannins. These wines are impressive, but not all of them have the structure for graceful aging.
Mondavi's Cabernet Sauvignons were wonderfully subtle, with restrained wood notes and excellent overall harmony; indeed they were modeled after the finest Bordeaux from the most famous châteaux. Of course, weather and soil conditions differed from Napa to France, so the wines varied in character, but the Mondavi style was never about power; rather Mondavi's approach was about balance.
Much of the fruit for Mondavi's finest Cabernet Sauvignons was sourced from the To Kalon vineyard directly behind the vineyard. Meaning "highest beauty," To Kalon was planted in the 1860s and was known as one of the finest vineyards for Cabernet Sauvignon, a consideration that is still true these days. There are currently several owners of To Kalon, but it was Mondavi who was most famous for this site's reputation with his wines starting from more than five decades ago; the current team at Robert Mondavi Winery continues these labors with releases of several wines specifically from To Kalon.
Sauvignon Blanc was also planted at To Kalon; this was appropriate as the varietal serves as the basis for many of the finest white Bordeaux wines. Mondavi, labeled his wine Fumé Blanc instead of Sauvignon Blanc; this was a tribute to Pouilly-Fumé from the France's Loire Valley. Today the winery produces several different examples of wines made from this varietal, with some being labeled as Sauvignon Blanc, while others still carry the Fumé Blanc designation such as the examples from To Kalon, including an outstanding To Kalon Reserve Fumé Blanc.
Like most companies, change was inevitable, and in 2004, the winery was purchased by Constellation Brands, an American company that has over 100 brands in its portfolio, including other wineries in California and Italy. A few years later in 2008, Mr. Mondavi passed away at the age of 94; given these two items, many predicted the quality of wines at the company would decline.
Thankfully, the team at Constellation knew what a glorious property they had on their hands, and have taken great efforts to restore the glory days of the Robert Mondavi Winery. The winemaking team, led by Curtis Ogasawara, along with his agronomist Blake Wood, are today crafting some of the finest wines from here in some years, especially the wines from To Kalon, which has remained a hallowed property for the winery. One taste of The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, To Kalon Vineyard, should guarantee that you are tasting one of Napa Valley's elite wines.
The historic winery in Oakville is currently undergoing a major renovation, but visitors can still taste the Mondavi wines at the handsome Arch & Tower building alongside the Napa River in the town of Napa. There are several tasting options, including what is known as The Legend Lunch, which consists of three courses paired with wines from the Robert Mondavi Estates Collection. As Mondavi's wines have always been understated, playing up to foods, this is a great way to enjoy what the winery is aiming for - producing the most complex and pleasurable wines from some of Napa's finest vineyards in a style that is most appropriate for the sumptuous dining. What better way to continue the excellence begun by Robert Mondavi himself way back in 1966!
Tasting notes on a few current releases of Robert Mondavi wines:
Fumé Blanc Reserve To Kalon 2022 - Classic aromas of gooseberry and melon, with appealing notes of papaya. Medium-full with very good acidity and a long, satisfying finish with a hint of bell pepper. Beautiful expression of Fumé Blanc; enjoy now or over the next 5-7 years. ()
Fumé Blanc To Kalon I-Block 2021 - Here is the most remarkable wine made at Robert Mondavi, a Fumé Blanc from a small parcel at To Kalon known as the I Block; the vines here were planted in 1945 (!) making this what is believed to be the oldest producing Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in North America. Given that the vines are almost 70 years old, production is tiny - less than 250 cases per year, sometimes even fewer than 100 cases - but the concentration and complexity of this wine is nothing short of stunning! Superb texture, very long finish, excellent acidity and outstanding complexity, this is as good as Sauvignon (Fumé) Blanc gets! This should age well, and offer enjoyment for at least 10-12 additional years. (95)
