Explore Busan's vibrant restaurants and bars like a local
Long shadows are cast across Jeonpo-dong's narrow alleyways as the evening sun dips behind the high-rises of Seomyeon to the west — Busan's central business district. Having shaken off its industrial roots, the neighbourhood of Jeonpo has undergone a remarkable transformation, blossoming into a lively labyrinth of cool cafes, hip bars and speciality restaurants.
During the day, locals fill Jeonpo's vibrant Cafe Street , catching up with friends in the many coffee shops. Now, in the early evening, it's just as busy, with young groups sauntering down its side streets and forming queues at a range of popular establishments, from tapas bars and Japanese noodle counters to Taiwanese hot bun shops. Colourful neon signs pop from the front of little restaurants and bars, advertising their menus in splashy lettering. The air is filled with a melange of music — K-pop, jazz and rock — all adding to the area's youthful spirit.
Letting my stomach guide me, I find myself on the edge of the district, where the hardware shops of yesteryear still operate. I duck into Good Morning Hong Kong and immediately know I've made the right call. Not only does this spot feel like sitting in one of Hong Kong's hole-in-the-wall diners, but it also smells like the Chinese cooking I remember — deep spices and chilli oil. I dive into a peppery bowl of dan dan mian, a Sichuanese noodle dish that perfectly balances spicy, sweet and savoury.
"I used to work in Hong Kong and fell in love with cha chaan tengs," says co-owner Yi-hyeon Yeom, referring to the little food and tea shops found throughout the city. "There were none here in Busan, so my brother and I decided to open one of our own." This plan turned out to be a good decision, as their efforts were recently recognised by Michelin, which included Good Morning Hong Kong in its inaugural 2024 Busan guide.
Ready for more, I head to Yeongdo, an island across from the old port and one of Busan's most storied neighbourhoods. I sit on a bench at a — an old-school drinking stall — which translates as 'covered wagon'. In Busan, these spots still thrive, especially in Yeongdo, where over 40 of them line the quay. Lively patrons drink and nibble on grilled fish and other late night snacks, while moored fishing boats bob in the water a few feet away.
As in most cities, Busan's nightlife scene is centred around its youth culture, so the following evening, I head to the north end of the city, hoping to get lost in the alleys and bars near Pusan National University — locally referred to as PNU. This state-run institution, which utilises the city's former English spelling, is home to over 17,000 students, many of whom blow off steam in the nearby dining and drinking spots. Their presence draws even more young people to the area, creating one of Busan's most lively late-night districts. Liam Cullivan, a long-time local businessman and the proprietor of Northside Pizza, says, "This street is hot right now," as he gestures to packs of stylish young people milling close to his restaurant. "Old clothing shops have moved out and restaurants and bars are moving in — all doing well."
The evening starts with a visit to Different Days, a cafe/bar in a renovated old house. The space is comfortable and bohemian with rough, broken concrete floors giving it a New York loft vibe. The owner, Ho-seok Kim, takes his craft very seriously, meticulously brewing Colombian coffee over ice with the touch of a master. This attention to detail has influenced his assistant, Yagmur Nur Celik, a Turkish PNU graduate student who reflects the growing international makeup of the student body. "This cafe is great because I've learnt how to brew properly," she says. "There are so many flavours and I've had the chance to learn about their differences".
On the hunt for something a little harder than coffee, I stop at Someday — a no-nonsense pub that blasts rock 'n' roll on its speakers and sometimes hosts live bands — before moving on to a more intimate setting at Baekseok. This charming little LP (retro music) bar occupies the first floor of an old brick house on a quiet side street, specialising in whisky, wine and cocktails. "We get people between the ages of 20 and 70," says owner Joo-hee Kim. "Most of our customers are regulars. They come here for the music, atmosphere and the fact that we have the largest liquor collection in PNU."
Busan is a city renowned for its beaches, so it makes sense that late-night revellers are drawn to the city's shorelines. The current crown jewel of Busan's nightlife is Gwangalli Beach , with its mile-long strip of bars, restaurants, cafes and karaoke rooms overlooking the iconic Gwangan Bridge. This vibrant area draws both locals and visitors, offering a dynamic atmosphere against the stunning backdrop of the bridge, illuminated over the water.
I start my discovery of the Gwangalli Beach area at Millac the Market, a brand-new complex at the east end of the beach that offers shopping, eating and drinking. The warehouse-like building is made of brick, black metal and lots of glass — including a grand window that spans an entire side. Low-fi hip-hop pulsates from the speakers and the place radiates a modern, cool vibe. Sipping a crisp lager from a seat at the market's terrace, I take in the sea view and observe the other visitors who casually explore the clothing boutiques and artisanal craft shops.
My next stop is Union Station , a cosy bar specialising in makgeolli, Korea's milky rice wine. The brainchild of Korean-American Michelle Lee, Union Station feels like part bistro, part living room. "When I was back in the States, I started brewing makgeolli as a Covid hobby," she says. "I stumbled upon different makgeolli-making videos and gave it a try. When I came back to Korea, I went to learn officially up in Seoul."
Michelle delivers a bottle of her signature mango makgeolli to the table, along with a crispy haemul pajeon (green onion and seafood pancake) and fiery dubu kimchi (tofu and sour kimchi) whipped up by her partner, Jae-wook Jeong.
The night is still young, so I venture back out to get a German-style beer at Suden — the newest entry to Gwangalli's craft beer scene. Locals have been active in fostering local craft beer over the years, so much so that they hold the annual Busan Craft Beer Festival and the Busan Craft Beer Masters Challenge . Afterwards, I head to Joseph, one of the city's premier cocktail bars. It's both lavish and laid-back, to the extent the bar even lacks a written menu. Patrons can order any cocktail they're craving and the mixologists will craft bespoke drinks.
Footloose and happy, I stumble out of Joseph, finding myself back on the main beach road. The street's buzzing with groups soaking up the warm night, with the Gwangan Bridge forming an impressive backdrop. Yachts cut across the bay, blasting fountains of fireworks from their bows. This display, along with the sea air, clears my head momentarily and, while I'm tempted to call it a night, I can hear music thumping from the strip and know I'm just getting started.
