Melee The Show Is Hitting Paris… And These Are The Jewels To See
Melee the Show opens in Paris on Friday, with a press preview overlooking the Eiffel Tower and a tight edit of the best contemporary luxury jewelry from independent designers and makers. This will be the second season in the City of Lights for the jewelry showcase, which is already well-established in the US with Winter editions in New York City and Tuscon, and according to show founders Lauren Wolf and Rebecca Overmann, it's "a natural pivot for us. Paris serves as a pivotal meeting point between East and West, making it an ideal location for expanding our platform."
Pre-pandemic, the pair were already registering interest in showing in the French capital from the designers they worked with, but it wasn't until 2024 that the show eventually made it across the Atlantic. "We were pleasantly surprised by the strong interest from US stores that had not previously participated," they say, confirming "the strategic value of Paris as a hub for attracting fashion-forward stores that specialize in fine jewelry".
After over 20 years in the jewelry industry, Lauren and Rebecca started Melee in 2017 as a show for creatives, by creatives. They both still balance Melee with their own creative practices and jewelry businesses — Lauren Wolf Jewelry and Rebecca Overmann respectively — producing collections during the down-time between bi-seasonal Melee shows and running both with the polish of a "well-oiled system" thanks to strong teams.
Often a draining experience for designers, traditional trade shows can take their toll, prompting Melee to take a different tack. "Our first-hand experience allows us to address the unique challenges designers face and create an environment that showcases their work effectively while minimizing stress," they say. Both of them have also worked as buyers, so they were able to design a streamlined buying experience that is rooted in careful curation, combined with thoughtful layout and display set-up for a more authentic experience on both sides, enabling Melee to "bridge the gap" between buyer and creative.
It's a formula that has worked well, the US editions of the show regularly feature established names like Céline Daoust, Ten Thousand Things and White Space. Talent-spotting comes via their extensive industry experience, as well as social accounts like A Thousand Facets and Diamonds in the Library; "right now, we're looking forward to seeing the latest work from UK designer Ciara Bowles and Erica Molinari — especially her enamel work — and Ellis Mhairi Cameron continues to be a source of inspiration," they say. "We're also big fans of Shinkai, one of our New York designers, and Ray Griffins — his work is nothing short of genius."
In Paris, both home-grown and international brands will be on the roster, including contemporary elegance from Alex Fitz, Universal Deco's geometric statement rings, whimsical femininity by Mariko Tsuchiyama and quiet design innovation from Dana Bronfman. The preview will also mark the launch of Elsa Tierney's new book, Art of Wax.
The team are ready for the Paris style set at Friday's launch event at the Mona Bismarck Hotel. In contrast to US trade shows, similar events in Paris are just as much about networking and visibility, as they are orders and transactions, as independent brands build their presence on the global stage.
In a city that sets the tone and launches global trends, all is to be won in terms of influence and meaningful connections. "By leveraging Paris ' unique position as a crossroads of global fashion, we aim to build a vibrant showcase that reflects and enhances the city's reputation as a center for high-end jewelry and design," they finish.
Six Highlights at Melee the Show Paris
