Foodandwine
Here's What You Need to Look for When Buying Pinot Noir and Merlot, According to Experts
E.Nelson1 hr ago
Cabernet Sauvignon may be the world's most popular red wine, but Pinot Noir and Merlot have long been fan favorites. And while all three grape varieties couldn't be more different, it's the latter two that are most confused. "There is a time and place for everything, and while I'm drawn to Pinot Noir for its elegance and versatility, Merlot shines for its approachability," says Giulia Dwight, beverage manager at Cucina Alba in New York City. Merlot tends to show aromas and flavors of darker fruits and sweet spice, whereas Pinot Noir offers notes of red fruit and earth. "Merlot is fruitier," says Gabriella Borg Costanzi, service and wine director at French bistro Le Crocodile in Brooklyn, New York. She cites signature notes of red and black plums as well as blackberries, in addition to juicy ripeness on the palate. Borg Costanzi finds Pinot Noir to be a bit more restrained, lighter-bodied and taut in structure. "I always think half-forest fruit, half-stemmy, leafy characteristics," she says. Mirko Razzini, a sommelier at Lake Como's Grand Hotel Tremezzo in Italy, says that Pinot Noir tends to have primary aromas of red and black cherry, strawberry, and raspberry. Those are followed by earthy, floral-tinged notes of roses and violets. "Merlot, on the other hand, is characterized by darker fruits, like plums and blackberries, as well as herbal notes and spices such as cinnamon or tobacco," says Razzini. Regardless of the variety, he says, terroir, climate, and vinification techniques will heavily play into a wine's final flavor profile. Best regions for Pinot Noir and Merlot Although Pinot Noir and Merlot are cultivated around the world, each boasts its own signature regions. Pinot Noir thrives in its homeland of Burgundy, as well as in Oregon's Willamette Valley and on California's Sonoma Coast. The grape also has a strong presence in New Zealand's cooler regions like Marlborough and Wairarapa, as well as across northern Italy, where it goes by Pinot Nero. "Pinot Noir is a difficult [variety]," says Borg Constanzi. "It's early budding, so at risk of spring frost, as well as early ripening, meaning it hates the heat, so it's pretty well suited to cool-to-moderate climate areas." Elsewhere in Italy, Pinot Nero has a strong presence in Oltrepò Pavese and Trentino-Alto Adige, as well as in Franciacorta, a small region in the north. Merlot shines in Bordeaux's Right Bank, where it can ripen on the region's typically cooler, clay-based soils. In the U.S., great expressions are found in California's Napa Valley and Washington State. "Beyond its varietal expressions, some of which are amongst the world's most renowned wines, it's also a prized blending grape, adding depth to Bordeaux blends and Super-Tuscans," says Dwight. Razzini says that Chile, Argentina, and Australia are also places where Merlot is widely grown. The difference in structure and body Beyond aroma and flavor, Pinot Noir and Merlot also differ in body and structure. "Merlot is pretty medium across the board: medium tannin, medium acid, medium body," says Borg Costanzi. She says that Pinot Noir tends to be higher acid, lower tannin, and leaner in body. Razzini agrees and says that Merlot-based wines tend to be juicier and fuller-bodied than Pinot Noir. Dwight says that the "plush, velvety" nature of Merlot makes it easy and accessible for a variety of wine drinkers to enjoy. Bottles to look for To understand the difference between these two iconic grape varieties, try bottles that exemplify each expression. We chose the following bottles that best express Pinot Noir and Merlot for you to compare and appreciate. Pinot Noir Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Maranges Vieilles Vignes (Burgundy, France) This wine is spearheaded by brothers Marc and Alexandre Bachelet, who are helping to pioneer this special, higher-elevation area of Burgundy (Hautes-Côtes). Made with 20% whole clusters, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in barrel (20% new), the bottling offers high-toned flavors of cranberry and raspberry, with bright acidity that leads to a refreshing, crunchy finish. Cooper Mountain Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Oregon, U.S.) This entry-level Pinot from Cooper Mountain offers a beautiful gateway into the estate and Willamette Valley as a whole. Fruit for this wine comes from four of the Valley's oldest vineyard sites and is aged for 10 months in oak. Medium-bodied and supple, the wine offers flavors of red cherry, forest floor, and a hint of red flower Craggy Range Martinborough Pinot Noir (Martinborough, New Zealand) This bottle is a reminder not to sleep on Pinot from New Zealand. This varietal expression is produced from 100% hand-harvested fruit grown in the estate-owned Te Muna Road Vineyard. In the cellar, 15% whole clusters are used, and fermentation is done with native yeasts. Fleshy and floral-tinged, the wine shows flavors of red fruits, crushed rose pearls, black tea, and damp earth. L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington, U.S.) Over the past two decades, Washington State has become renowned for its Merlot, and expressions like L'Ecole No. 41 are partly responsible. Fruit for this wine comes from the Seven Hills and Ferguson vineyards. Post-fermentation, it is aged for 18 months in oak (30% new). Full-bodied and flavor-packed, the wine offers flavors of red plum, blackberry jam, cola, and a touch of sage. Château Coutet St-Émilion Grand Cru (St-Émilion, Bordeaux) Like many reds produced in St-Émilion, Château Coutet's expression uses four of Bordeaux's signature varieties, though it is made with a blend dominated by Merlot. Ripe and rich, the wine offers notes of ripe red and black fruits, tobacco, and a hint of used leather. Mayacamas Vineyards Merlot (Napa Valley, California, U.S.) With a history that dates to the late 19th century, Mayacamas is a pillar in California viticulture. The estate's signature Merlot comes from Mt. Veeder and is fermented in a combination of steel (70%), concrete (20%), and large-format oak (10%). Flavors of raspberry jam, blueberry, and a touch of graphite lead to a long, cedar-tinged finish. (Note: A percentage of Cabernet Franc is generally included.)
Read the full article:https://www.foodandwine.com/pinot-noir-merlot-buying-guide-8742243
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