Tampabay
Tampa Bay’s Top 30 Restaurants of 2024
K.Smith15 hr ago
During my tenure as the food and dining critic for the Tampa Bay Times, the local restaurant landscape has evolved tremendously. Over the past five and a half years, we've witnessed a pandemic-fueled takeout game give way to a boom in quick-service concepts. We've swapped out casual spots for white tablecloths and high-end tasting menus. And, through it all, we've witnessed inflation on the plate firsthand: We are paying more than ever for our food and drink. Recently, hurricanes Helene and Milton unleashed a tough blow for Tampa Bay eateries, in particular violent storm surge that flooded some local spots. Add to that rising food and labor costs and one of the slowest summers in recent memory, and it's not hard to see why we've lost more than a few beloved restaurants the past 12 months. But the Tampa Bay hospitality world is fueled by an incredibly resilient bunch, and when things got tough, the local restaurant industry got to work, with fundraisers and relief drives for hospitality workers out of a job in the wake of the storms. It's been inspiring to watch chefs and restaurateurs respond with such tenacity. And as we wind down 2024, I can confidently say — after consuming hundreds of meals across the area — that Tampa Bay's restaurant landscape is teeming with talent and ambition. Over the past four months, I've dined at restaurants all across the area to compile this list, which encompasses the very best places to eat right now. In a way, this list is the result of hundreds of meals, research and reporting from the past five years: Until now, I've never crafted a ranked list culled from eateries both new and old. "Best of" lists can sometimes come off as stale or elitist, out of touch with how so many of us choose to dine. I wanted this list to feel more dynamic and approachable — a fluid and diverse collection of eateries that showcases how varied and endlessly creative our local restaurant game has become. On my list of the Top 30 Restaurants in Tampa Bay, you'll see quick-service spots sidling tasting menu-only restaurants, and intimate eateries sharing the spotlight with sandwich shops. You'll likely notice a few newcomers have been left off, places that hadn't been open long enough to work out the kinks and fully hit their stride. That's OK — I know they'll get there, and I'm excited to see where they land on next year's list. You might also notice that some long-running classics are absent. This isn't to say these spots aren't good, but they perhaps didn't feel quite as contemporary as their counterparts, the places that really represent the current state of Tampa Bay's dining culture. (For our rundown of the area's most iconic restaurants, see our list here .) There's still room for Tampa Bay's restaurant scene to grow. But we've come a long way — as restaurant owners, as chefs and as diners. These restaurants best define how we love to eat right now. Moving a successful restaurant and replicating the concept in a different location isn't easy. But when the duo behind Lolita's moved out of their beloved home off Central Avenue to a new Warehouse District space, the transition appeared seamless. And as cozy as their little flagship spot was, their new restaurant and wine garden at the Morean Center for Clay is somehow even more charming. The couple behind it all, Kelly and Alex Rodriguez, run the petite dining room and outside area with the same menu, though inside, with its exposed brick walls and plush midnight blue banquettes, feels considerably more upscale. Dishes like ropa vieja-style short ribs served with chimichurri over a manchego orecchiette fondue or the refreshing, sweet-salty watermelon and feta salad showcase Chef Alex's killer chops in the kitchen. But it's hard to dine here and not spring for one of the spot's tried-and-true cheese-and-cured meat combos, or one of the delicious spreads (honey lavender ricotta for the win). In a culinary landscape where the charcuterie board is still very much king, Lolita's does it best.Don't skip: Short ribs, The French Board For many, Pia's Trattoria is an excursion — a reason to ring in a birthday or date night or any number of celebratory occasions. And it's a great place to do all of these things, no doubt. But I'd argue that Pia's is, at its heart, a casual neighborhood restaurant. Husband-and-wife team Pia and Tom Goff opened their Gulfport Italian spot back in 2005, and though they've since expanded (they also own Pia's Veranda right across the street), the restaurant still imbues all the cozy, warm characteristics that made it such a hit nearly two decades ago. The classics are all still there, and all very good: bruschetta toppling with garlicky tomatoes and basil; shrimp scampi over buttery, citrusy homemade linguini; lasagna blanketed with cheese, bubbling in a piping hot cast-iron skillet. The specials here are always excellent, evidence that, despite the years, the kitchen hasn't slowed down one bit. My favorite way to enjoy Pia's isn't for a celebration or big night out, but instead as a pop-in on a weeknight, when a glass of Italian red wine and their killer antipasti misto are calling my name.Don't skip: Spaghetti di Bologna, antipasti misto Yes, there have been some changes at Tampa Bay's most-celebrated restaurant. Longtime chef Habteab Hamde is no longer helming the kitchen. Instead, Chad Johnson (of neighboring Haven) is running the show. There have been tweaks to the menu, and a much overdue revamp of the downstairs bar. But at its core, Bern's still does what Bern's does best: service, ambiance and really solid steak. And yes, some pomp and circumstance. The vision Bern Laxer had when he first opened the landmark South Tampa restaurant in 1956 feels very much intact. Meals still begin with French onion soup under a bubbling cheese cap, and move on to a salad (get the tableside Caesar) and then the main attraction: steak. But there are plenty of other ways to make a night of it here, from the impressive whiskey selection and cocktail menu to the whimsical Chips & Dip, featuring homemade salt and vinegar chips dipped in a black truffle-laced creme fraiche. You can still marvel at the encyclopedic wine list (encompassing one of the largest wine collections at any restaurant in the world), and you absolutely still should cap an evening with a visit to the Harry Waugh Dessert Room. Get a scoop of the spot's signature macadamia nut ice cream. There are other Tampa restaurants serving really good steak. But you're not really here just for the steak — you're here for the experience of it all.Don't skip: Chips & Dip, "Taste of Bern's " steak trio It is a very good thing that Good Intentions came along — both for vegans and for those of us who will eat just about anything. Most vegan restaurants in Tampa Bay take a more casual approach and aren't exactly associated with ambitious cooking that appeals to the omnivore set. That isn't the case here, where a constantly evolving menu features a wide range of creative, delicious dishes anyone would spring for. There is so much to love, from the lemony whipped "ricotta" topped with pistachio and Szechuan agave to the kimchi fried rice topped with "crab" balls and the fantastic spin on bun cha, topped with rice noodles, "pork" meatballs, chili crisp and a slew crunchy vegetables. There's also a fun cocktail program with vegan spins where applicable (the blue cheese olives in the classic martini are a must) and one of the best espresso martinis in town.Don't skip: Whipped ricotta, kimchi fried rice The breakfast sandwich alone could earn this tiny takeout restaurant in downtown Tampa a solid spot on this list. It's no secret that the egg, cheese and bacon combo garnered the attention of celebrity chef Alton Brown , who called it the "best breakfast sandwich ever." Rightly so! But there's so much more on this fun menu. Take the rotisserie chicken sandwich, creamy with Dijon and studded with raisins, served on toasted sourdough bread. Or the massive Italian Stallion, toppling with cured meats and Provolone and paired with an herby pepper salad. If it's a salad you're feeling, you can't go wrong with the Thai Crunch, which features either tofu or roasted chicken fanned over butter lettuce with avocado and showered with peanuts, fresh herbs, lime and chile sesame vinaigrette. Really, you can't go wrong here at all.Don't skip: Breakfast sandwich, sour doughnuts When Willa's opened in 2021, Tampa didn't really have much in the way of all-day cafes. The concept wasn't novel — owners Nate Siegel and Merrin Jenkins had fallen for the vibes at all-day spots in New York City and elsewhere. But a neighborhood spot where one could dine and drink any time of day hadn't yet become our thing. The general schtick? Breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or just snacks and drinks — pretty much anytime the restaurant is open. But more than that, Willa's is simply a very good neighborhood restaurant. And at a time when it seems like one glitzy high-end eatery is opening after the next, it's hard to deny the inherent charm imbued from a place where there's no pretense but still quality food and ambience. It doesn't hurt that there's a stellar wine and cocktail program, either. It's the spot's simple staples that keep me coming back: the ricotta and hazelnut toast, drizzled with a thick ribbon of honey; the tahini kale Caesar, tucked under a shower of Grano Padano cheese; the roasted half chicken with salsa verde, fries and aioli.Don't skip: Hazelnut ricotta toast, roasted chicken It can be easy to pass by Roam, which sits next to the Candlelight Inn on 34th Street N. in St. Petersburg. But upon entering, the smell of chargrilled oysters and steaks smoldering on the grill is a surefire sign that you're in the right place. The casual steakhouse from brothers Joshua and Christian Jackson opened in 2022 and has since cemented itself as one of the best under-the-radar places to get a good steak. Chargrilled steaks are served with a loaded baked potato, and come in a variety of tasty cuts, from a New York strip to the whopping Tomahawk, a portion large enough for sharing. The spot's Southern influence includes several references to Louisiana, a nod to the brothers' father, who once ran a restaurant in Baton Rouge. Sides like collard greens, butter pecan whipped yams and a decadent truffle mac and cheese really round out a meal. But the dish I'd drive across town for any day are the chargrilled oysters, which over the years have proved so popular, the kitchen has added several variations. There's now a Texas Hold 'Em version with smoked sausage, sweet corn and Parmesan as well as the Hollygrove (another Louisiana nod), featuring a crawfish, crab and shrimp medley topped with smoked gouda and Cajun butter. This former New Orleanian still loves the spot's signature Roam oysters: hot from the grill, bubbling with charred Parmesan and seafood butter.Don't skip: Chargrilled oysters, tomahawk steak In all my years reviewing restaurants, I'm not sure I've ever seen a spot rocket to success as quickly as this South Tampa restaurant, which less than a month after opening caught the attention of the esteemed Michelin Guide and a few months later got the guide's Bib Gourmand nod. I don't always see eye-to-eye with the elite European rankings system, but on this, we agree: Streetlight Taco is really good. The contemporary Mexican restaurant, which opened in January, is an homage to chef Michael Brannock's lifelong appreciation of Mexican culture and cuisine. You can feel the love in the nixtamalized corn tortillas, made with heirloom corn; the melt-in-your-mouth pork carnitas topped with smoky chile de arbol salsa; the impressive list of agave spirits and the even more incredible cocktails made with them. Though some dishes, like a Jaliscan-inspired beef barbacoa topped with a salsa Guadalajara, skew regional and traditional, there's a lot here that strays outside the lines, and that's when it gets really fun. Take the Sunday Snack tostadas, a colorful combination of lump crab meat, cream cheese, fresh mangos and a bright and citrusy mango salsa — slightly unorthodox, but absolutely delicious.Don't skip: Sunday Snack tostadas, carnitas tacos, brisket esquites If you've tried snagging a seat at this gem of a St. Petersburg restaurant and cocktail bar and failed, you're not alone. For one, Barbouni is really small. Like, 10 bar seats small. But also, the neighboring spot to Mediterranean restaurant Baba is open limited hours — so if you're not in the mood for tinned fish and a seafood tower on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday, you're out of luck. But what the restaurant may lack in space and availability, it more than makes up for once you actually do get in. The Greek-inspired ouzeri (a type of tavern) features the largest selection of tinned seafood, or "conservas," in the Tampa Bay area, a unique concept offering roughly 50 different choices that range from Danish smoked mussels to inky Spanish grilled squid to Japanese anchovies. And you're not just getting a tin of fish, you're getting a full spread: Each tin is accompanied by a house-prepared accompaniment, usually thick slices of crusty bread and a combination of parsley salad, sumac-pickled red onions, butter, salt, shug and lemon. The restaurant also serves bar snacks and small plates, including olives, dips like hummus and tzatziki, shrimp crudo and the must-have crispy fried fish collars with ramp tartar sauce.Don't skip: Hamachi crudo, Matiz cockles in brine It's not hard to find a fish camp in Tampa Bay. Despite the area's rapid transformation and new developments, we still live in close proximity to the Gulf of Mexico, and there are plenty of great spots that help us remember this. But what differentiates one fish camp from another? A grouper sandwich is just a grouper sandwich, right? At a place like Mullet's Fish Camp in St. Petersburg, a contemporary spin on the Florida classic, takes the genre to a whole other level. You'll still find all the typical fish camp staples: smoked fish spread, grouper sandwiches, peel-and-eat shrimp. But there's a considerable uptick in quality. The model here provides diners with a number of choices: Pick a seafood, a cooking style and a sauce. It sounds simple enough; the results are anything but. Take an order of fish tacos, for example. I love getting them with mahi, but the grouper and snapper are also great. Then there's the choice of style: Do you want your catch fried, Cajun-fried, blackened or grilled? All of the options are good, but the Florida Man (cooked in a citrus herb butter) or the Bobby Lee (a hoisin ginger and garlic butter topped with crunchy slaw) versions are among the most popular, for good reason. The thing that really gets people through the doors, however, isn't seafaring at all: It's the smoked chicken wings, which are among the best (if not the best) wings in all of Tampa Bay. I like to get them with the house "Merman" sauce, a Carolinas-esque sweet and vinegary elixir, and a side of the house blue cheese dressing.Don't skip: Fish tacos, smoked wings
Read the full article:https://www.tampabay.com/life-culture/food/2024/11/10/tampa-bay-top-30-restaurants-2024/
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