The sweet, bitter, smooth pleasure of a good Negroni: 5 bars in LA that get it right

Of all the classic cocktails, the Negroni might be the best. Boozy, straightforward, and smooth, it's perfect to drink year-round. Made with just three stirred ingredients — equal parts gin, sweet red vermouth, and Campari — it's easy to put together and fun to play with when you're looking to experiment with a variation.

And the act of making a Negroni is nothing short of a comforting ritual, akin to brewing that first cup of coffee in the morning and much more satisfying than simply pouring a bottle of rosé after a long day.

Getting the Negroni just right — using enough ice, stirring long enough but not too long, perfecting coldness and dilution, twisting a perfect bit of orange peel — might seem simple enough, but requires a bit of practice to perfect. And luckily, the practice is part of the fun.

A good Negroni is neither overly bitter nor sweet, and the mark of a really well-made version is its texture. Avoid something overly diluted and watery and look out for a really smooth mouthfeel. Some will stick to the standard 1:1:1 ratio, while others, like acclaimed New York bar Death & Co. , will encourage the use of slightly more gin. Some will stick to gin, while others will play with mezcal or even add espresso, teas, chocolate, or bitters.

But for when you're tired of making drinks at home or simply want a cocktail on a rooftop with friends, there are plenty of spots in Los Angeles to try the classic Negroni or a variation thereof. And in a city with no shortage of stellar cocktail bars, it's worth remembering not to overlook this beloved drink.

I almost view it as a litmus test; if a bar can make a good Negroni, it shows their bartenders understand technique, dilution, and balance. And if the variation is comparable to the original, that's all the more impressive.

Here are some of my favorite Negronis around town.

Grandmaster Recorders (Hollywood)

Grandmaster Recorders doesn't miss, and while there are plenty of delicious wines and cocktails to try at either the restaurant, studio space, or rooftop bar, the Negronis are especially worth trying.

What's special about the Negronis here is that each floor serves a different variation; grab a bianco Negroni on tap at the restaurant, a caffe Negroni at the recording studio-turned-bar space called Studio 71, and finish with a post-dinner classic at the rooftop overlooking Hollywood.

Baar Baar (DTLA)

Baar Baar's cocktail menu is solid; no matter what drink you order, you really can't miss at this Downtown L.A. restaurant. But the Anarkali might be the best they have to offer. Named after the 1953 Bollywood movie, this Negroni variation features Darjeeling tea and cardamom along with all the standard ingredients. It's smooth, sweet, and slightly tannic. Be forewarned though that the caffeine might make it harder to sleep, especially when you order more than one.

Terra in Eataly (Century City)

Ordering a Negroni and some antipasti at Terra is as close to an Italian aperitivo as you can get without leaving county lines. The classic Negroni is made to perfection — no notes. Order the Negroni A Mood Mio if you want a twist that swaps out vermouth for Amaro Meletti and adds grapefruit bitters, and enjoy the rooftop views. You'll almost forget you're at the Century City Mall.

Dante (Beverly Hills)

Order a Negroni — or seven — at Dante in Beverly Hills, where the extensive cocktail menu dedicates a whole page to this Italian favorite. There are variations made with tequila, mezcal, or rum; featuring chocolate or coffee; and even a mini version developed with Italian restaurateur Massimo Bottura. And of course, there's the traditional version too. Any drink will go with one of the best views in Beverly Hills.

Capri Club (Eagle Rock)

This Eagle Rock aperitivo bar is a great place to get a no-fuss Negroni, made with either gin or mezcal. For those looking for a spin, there's also a white Negroni crafted with a house white aperitivo blend and bianco vermouth, or a tobacco Negroni made with mezcal, bitter noveis, Carpano Antica, and tobacco and cherry bitters.

Those avoiding alcohol can also order a Phony Negroni. Come early to snag a red booth, or enjoy your drink at the packed bar or outdoor tables.