What do the royals really eat? Here are their all-time faves!

We had these at the lunch following the King's Coronation in May 2023. The key is the contrast between tart curd and sweet, billowing meringue topping.

MAKES 4

For the curd

zest and juice of 3 unwaxed lemons For the tartlets

You will need

baking beans

POTAGE PARMENTIER This recipe is a version of Purée de Pommes de Terre, dite Parmentier, and taken from Auguste Escoffier's Guide Culinaire, one of the most influential cookbooks of all time. Published in 1903, it's the bible of French haute cuisine and contains recipes inspired by the royal family, including Cerises Jubilée for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee and Selle d'Agneau de Lait Edouard VII. Escoffier also cooked for Edward VII, among many other members of the royal family, at The Savoy. Named after French physician and potato evangelist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, it's a classic leek and potato soup. It was also a favourite of Queen Victoria, and appears on the menu of the dinner in honour of her Diamond Jubilee on 22 June 1897. I've adapted the recipe slightly for the modern cook. The double cream adds its usual lustrous depth, while the croutons provide crunch. Vegetable stock can be used to make this vegetarian.

SERVES 2

white parts of 2 freshly washed leeks, finely sliced into rings salt and freshly ground black pepper To garnish

a glug of double cream fresh chervil, chopped (you could also use a big pinch of chopped chives)

ROAST RACK OF LAMB The late Queen was known for the simplicity of her tastes, and roast rack of lamb (or Carré d'Agneau) is not only simple but a classic, too. It's certainly not the cheapest of cuts (and do try to avoid that rather tasteless spring lamb). The key is to render all that fat in the initial searing to produce a crisp crust.

SERVES 2

a handful of rosemary and thyme leaves, finely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

SCOTCH WOODCOCK A classic savoury, found in palaces and gentlemen's clubs alike. The Queen Mother was a particular fan.

a big lump of butter, plus extra to serve (optional) a smidgen of gentleman's relish, to serve (optional) salt and freshly ground black pepper

In the meantime, toast the bread, then spread with the extra butter or a thin layer of gentleman's relish.

Cut the toast into triangles and top each one with scrambled egg and 2 anchovies to serve.

WELSH TEABREAD This is a recipe from the kitchen of Charles III. It was served when the King (then Prince of Wales) was in Wales, but it is still popular at tea, wherever he may be.

SERVES 8

a large pinch of mixed peel, finely chopped 11⁄2 mugs of self-raising flour (or as needed)

Turn out on to a wire rack to cool. Serve on its own or slathered with butter. This will keep well in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

These are little savoury snacks, made of cheese rather than for cheese. And, as the title makes clear, a great favourite of the eponymous Queen.

MAKES ABOUT 20

Mix everything into a paste in a food processor, then knead for a minute. Form into a ball, wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Potted shrimp is the most English of dishes. Tiny brown shrimps (and they are the only crustacean we call 'shrimp' rather than 'prawn') with the very sweetest of flavours are covered in butter spiced with mace, bay and cayenne pepper. Potting is an old preservation technique. At Buckingham Palace and Windsor, there was usually some form of potted meat, beef and chicken in particular, perfect for invalids and hearty eaters alike. This really is the simplest recipe, but if you can't be bothered to make your own, then the best brown potted shrimp comes from Morecambe Bay in Lancashire. You can also buy it ready-made from the great Baxters. This is a dish I've eaten at Birkhall for tea, as well as for a starter at dinner, too. Or just as a deeply civilised snack. Serve cold on brown toast, or melted, as below, on to hot crumpets.

SERVES 6

1⁄2 tsp ground cayenne pepper 1⁄2 tsp ground mace To serve

You will need

Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add the black pepper, cayenne pepper, mace and bay leaf. Throw in the shrimps and stir to coat. Cook for a couple of minutes until warmed through, then remove from the heat. Remove the bay leaf and check the seasoning.

POULET DANOISE Queen Mary certainly knew her onions. Yet, according to royal chef Gabriel Tschumi, she disliked 'extravagance of any kind and it displeased her if food at Marlborough House was ever wasted'. Not unlike her granddaughter and great-grandson. This dish was her favourite. Tschumi suggests making your own 'nouilles' or noodles, but tagliatelle will do fine.

SERVES 4

juice of 1⁄2 lemon a little butter salt and freshly ground black pepper For the flavoured butter

juice of 1 lemonPreheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Flavour the butter by mixing it with the parsley and lemon juice, then put half inside the cavity of the chicken and smear the other half all over the outside of the bird. Season well with salt and pepper.

Put the chicken in a large, heavy casserole pot, along with the onion, carrots and bay leaf. Roast for about 1 hour 45 minutes, or until the juices run clear when you pierce the thickest part with the tip of a knife. Make sure it doesn't brown too much, and cover with foil if it is browning too quickly.

Take the chicken out and set aside to rest. Strain the pot juices through a sieve, skim off most of the fat, then simmer with the stock and cream to reduce. Season with lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Cook the pasta according to the packet instructions, then drain and toss with a little butter. Place on a serving platter.

Carve the chicken and lay it on top of the noodles, then cover with the sauce and serve very hot.

NOW BUY THE BOOK Our recipes are from Cooking & The Crown by Tom Parker Bowles, with photographs by John Carey, which is published by Aster, £30. To order a copy for £25.50 with free UK delivery until 6 October, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937.£30. To order a copy for £25.50 with free UK delivery until 6 October, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937.