Foodandwine

What Is Quince? How to Use the Underrated Fall Fruit

C.Kim56 min ago
Take one sniff of a ripe quince and you'll never forget the aroma: bright and floral, like a tropical vanilla bean with notes of guava, jasmine, and pear. It's a siren call for chefs and home cooks, who are transfixed by its glorious flavor. Here's what to know about quince, and why chefs love it.

What is quince? Quince is the ugly duckling of the pome family, which includes apples and pears. This yellow-green fruit is lumpy, hard as a rock, and sometimes hairy. Unlike apples and pears, most varieties of quince are astringent and practically inedible when eaten raw. But cooking quince in a sugar syrup removes its astringency, brings out its aromas, and creates a luscious texture. Cooking quince also breaks the fruit down in a way that releases anthocyanins, a natural pigment which turns its white flesh a deep ruby hue.

The earliest varieties of quince hail from the Caucasus region and northern Persia. They spread throughout the Mediterranean and Asia via ancient trade routes, and on to the Americans via European colonization in the 15th century. Sadly, quinces have fallen out of favor with home cooks in the U.S. over the past century — perhaps because they take time and effort to prepare. But they're well worth the extra labor for their aromatic flavor. Here's everything you need to know when buying quince and incorporating it in your cooking.

When (and where) to find quince Quince can be found in the U.S. from August through December; imported quince may pop up at other times throughout the year. You can find quince at some orchards specializing in heritage fruit varieties, such as Brightonwoods Orchard in Burlington, Wisconsin. Many grocery stores carry quinces, especially those that cater to Latin American, Middle Eastern, and European cuisines. You can also order quince, in season, through online purveyors like Melissa's Produce or Frog Hollow Farm .

When shopping for quinces, first look for firm, unbruised fruits — then smell them. Select quinces that have a strong floral, fruity aroma, which indicates ripeness and flavor. Some quinces will tend toward a green color, but I recommend ones that are mostly yellow in hue.

As with apples, you can store quince on the counter for a day or two, but I suggest refrigerating them in the crisper drawer, where they can last up to a month depending on the variety.

How to prepare quince Just before cooking your quinces, wash them well and scrub off any fuzz. If you're making quince paste, you can leave the peel on. Otherwise, peel them. Cut the quince in half, then cut each half into quarters. Use a sharp paring knife or melon baller to remove the core. Be careful to scrape out any hard bits around the core — these itsy-bitsy nuggets will never soften when cooked. Drop the peeled and cored quince into a bowl of water with a few tablespoons of lemon juice to keep them from browning.

How to cook with quince Poach them To poach quince, I've adapted a method from Sift and Kitchen Projects author Nicola Lamb . Peel, quarter, and core two pounds of quince; combine them with four cups of water, two and a half cups of sugar, and two tablespoons of lemon juice in a slow cooker, then cook on low for six to eight hours, covering with a piece of parchment paper to keep the quinces submerged.

You can use spices such as one whole cinnamon stick, four to five slices of fresh ginger, six to eight pods of cardamom, two star anise, or (my favorite) a whole vanilla bean during the long poach. After it's done, let the quince cool in the syrup to room temperature and refrigerate. The pinky-red color of the quince deepens as it cools.

Reserve the syrup to use in recipes or a quince spritz. You can also reduce it down into a jelly by boiling it until it reaches 220°F on a candy thermometer; then transfer to a jar, cover, and refrigerate for up to a month.

Turn them into quince paste Quince has a ton of natural pectin, ideal for creating a lovely rosy-hued jam or jelly. In fact, the term marmalade comes from Portuguese marmelada, a preserve that is traditionally made from quince, or marmelo in Portuguese. It wasn't until the 18th century that marmalades were made with other fruit like oranges.

Membrillo or marmelada is a classic sliceable quince paste that shines on a cheese platter. You can find membrillo or quince paste at many grocery stores next to the jams and jellies. You can also make your own .

Use them in desserts You can use both poached quince and raw quince in your baking. Elevate your pastry game with a Quince Tarte Tatin crowned with poached quinces. Since quince can take a while to cook, you can also coarsely grate a peeled quince on a box grater (avoiding the core) and use it in your next apple pie filling; the fine shreds will fully cook by the time your pie is done baking.

Use them in savory dishes Quince adds a light floral sweetness to savory dishes too. Use a tablespoon or or two of quince-poaching liquid in a vinaigrette , or add chunks of poached quince to a salad or roast. You can also add some finely chopped raw quince when cooking your homemade cranberry sauce for an aromatic take on the Thanksgiving classic.

Like apples, quince pairs particularly well with pork, like in this Baked Beans with Pork Belly & Quince . Quinces are also a traditional ingredient in Middle Eastern tagines like this Moroccan Tagine with Quinces . Note that most savory recipes will call for simmering quince for at least 15 to 20 minutes to ensure it's fully cooked.

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